If Dolly Kei has been made famous outside of Japan by Grimoire, it is certainly not the only shop for that type of Fashion. We can also quote Cult Party (Kouenji), Tarock (Harajuku) and some other items for Dolly fashion could be found at Cabaret and Rosy Baroque (Shibuya) as these two shops sell only premium vintages. In Dolly Fashion, two types of trends are coexisting. If Grimoire would be a symbol of Dolly Kei playing on a more folklore look, The Virgin Mary (associated to Cult Party) is certainly the symbol of a school that prefers soft colors like soft pinks, whites, peaches, lilacs, soft greens... Materials also are lighter, fluid. The silhouette of Kyana, shop staff at The Virgin Mary, is typical of that school. Her silhouette is, of course, as in Dolly Fashion made of different layers, playing also on different lengths that she lets fall naturally: a long underskirt with lace, a flounced short skirt of the same color, a long soft old pink négligé. A simple tie and dye t-shirt is styled with some type of smooth corset. The big ribbon on the top of the head, looking like some headdress is also quite characterizing of The Virgin Mary and Cult Party look. Kyana wears the new edition of Vivienne Westwood’s rocking horse shoes, the “Wing Rocking Horse” made under Melissa and Vivienne Westwood collaboration - first presented in London Fashion week in September 2008. These silhouettes have something more evanescent, a bit like if it was an outfit for staying in a boudoir. Therefore, at The Virgin Mary, one’s would find long négligés and dressing gowns, and smooth, light dresses. They also propose a lot of these so particular curtain tassels that are turned into necklaces or belts. They also propose rosarios and crosses of different size. Handmade accessories at The Virgin Mary is as well a must have: their look is rather pop than morbid, unlike Grimoire's..
Author & Pictures: Valerie Fujita
Tôkyô To Shibuya Ku Jingu Mae 5-30-6